Imagine a small tropical island with incredible
snorkelling and scuba diving, a rich jungle in the centre
and surrounded by remarkably quiet, palm tree laced beaches.
You're imagining Koh Tao, a small island off the southern
coast of Thailand not far from the better known (but more
crowded) Koh Samui.
Koh
Tao, little more than 21 km, is located about 70 km east of
the coastline between Suratthani and Chumphon, in the Gulf
of Thailand. Koh Tao translates as Turtle Island, because
in the past the waters teemed with sea turtles. Nowadays they
have moved on to new breeding grounds since travelers and
tourists enjoy Koh Tao's beaches instead.
In
the beginning, the island was uninhabited, and only the occasional
fisherman from the neighbouring islands came by to seek shelter
from a storm. On June 18, 1899, His Majesty the King Chulalongkorn
(Rama V , 1868-1910) visited Koh Tao and left as evidence
his monogram on a huge boulder at Jor Por Ror Bay next to
Sairee Beach. This place is still worshipped today and should
be treated with respect.
From
1933 on the island was used as a political prison because
of it's far distance from the mainland. In 1947, Khun A -Paiwong,
Prime Minister at that time, pleaded and received a royal
pardon for all prisoners on the island. Everybody was taken
back to the mainland and the "Turtle" was abandoned
once again. Not for long.
In
the same year Khun Ueam and his twin brother Khun Oh reached
Koh Tao from the neighbouring island Koh Phangan, At that
time, crossing over with a traditional sailboat was long and
dangerous.
It
took more than 12 hours crossing over from Koh Phangan, which
is just 45km away. Even though the island was still under
royal patronage, it didn't keep these pioneers from claiming
a good piece of land on today's Sairee Beach for them. Together
with them came their families, and they began to cultivate
and harvest the fertile soil.
The
first generation of today's community had settled! They lived
a very simple and tough life harvesting coconuts, fishing
and growing vegetables, which were traded with Koh Phangan.
Despite the many difficulties in reaching the island, the
population grew steadily.
About 15 years ago, the first backpackers arrived from Koh
Phangan. Rumours spread quickly about the islands unspoiled
beauty, especially it's marine life and coral reefs . Since
then, the number of visitors has increased rapidly, from fewer
than 50 a day a decade ago to more than 200 a day (2002).
It soon became one of the major dive sites in Thailand and
SE-Asia, attracting beginners and professionals alike. The
local businesses expanded immediately in order to catch up
with the needs of the new clientele. The island today, though
still remaining an absolute paradise, caters to all tastes
and budgets.
At
the present time, Koh Tao evolved into a haven for divers,
adventurers, travelers and holidaymakers from around the world.
The island's unique blend of coral reefs, natural & unspoiled
beauty, and relaxed life-style makes it a 'must-have-seen-it'
place!
Sairee
Beach
Sairee's white sandy beach stretches about 1.7km over most
of the west coast, interrupted only by a few huge boulders.
Mae Haad is only a 10 minute walk away.
Being the most popular area on Tao, Sairee offers a wide range
of accommodation, dive centers, restaurants, shops, beach
bars, travel & email services, nurseries, etc.
Here, you can have the best view on Koh Nang Yuan island.
A cluster of rocks called Suan Hin Jor Por Ror highlights
King Rama V's inscription that he made on his visit in 1899.
You will also find the Fishery Museum, and on the way to Mae
Haad the police station, the public school and the local Buddhist
temple.
Mae
Haad
All boats arrive & depart here. Highly developed now,
but still managed to keep some of it's old fishing village
charm.
Money exchange, post office, government office and health
center are located in Mae Haad. Most dive centers have an
office here.
Expect to find lots of travel agents, email services, supermarkets
(SevenEleven), bike rentals, good restaurants and party places.
A few up-market resorts are located on it's southern end.
Chalok Baan Kao
Third largest beach, located on the southern coast facing
Koh Phangan and Koh Samui. This bay is smaller than Sairee,
but offers a similar range of accommodation, eateries and
nightlife.
The Last Paradise, a helicopter pad, offers a spectacular
view of the bay and the surrounding beaches. Partytime is
on Sat's. Chalok Baan Kao is beautifully framed by Taa Toh
Lagoon to the east and Saan Jao Beach to the west. It also
connects to Thian Og Bay and Sai Daeng Beach. The rock formation
at cape Taa Toh resembles a sitting Buddha, this is best to
be seen from the viewpoint opposite (Buddha Rock).
Hin Wong Bay
North-east coast; this bay is abundant with intact coral reefs.
Four small hillside resorts and one diving school (Hin Wong
Divers).
WHAT
TO DO
Maybe
you are thinking by now Koh Tao is only for divers with nothing
else to do. Well, you are mistaken. The good thing about divers
is, that they spent most of their time in the water. So you
could start the day with the obvious and relax on a quiet,
empty beach.
It
is recommended to rent a longtail boat and explore the many
hidden bays of Koh Tao. This is a fun way to get in-touch
with the spectacular underwater world by lazily snorkeling
around. And don't worry! In case you get hooked up with the
fishies, just learn diving! Don't miss amazing Koh Nang Yuan
Island, unique in the world for it's three connecting coral
beaches! Deep sea and night fishing are offered by local fisherman.
Catch your dinner for tonight!
Those
who are fascinated by the beautiful rock formations, go and
see James at Gecko Climbing to take you on a climb! In several
places Thai cooking courses are offered. Aroi! (thai. delicious!)
For
those who start their day with physical exercise, why not
rent a kayak or a mountain bike?! Explore the turtle's back
by hiking up to Two-View. The breathtaking views make it absolutely
worth the effort.
The
Monsoon Gym (Mae Haad) is pretty cool to meet other people
and to stay in good shape, even on your vacation !
The
afternoon heat is the time to relax. Thai culture has a long
history of the different types of relaxation, such as a traditional
Thai massage, herbal sauna, facial & feet massage, refreshing
drinks. Or just get into one of the numerous hammocks along
the beaches and let yourself be lulled to sleep by the gentle
seabreeze!
Why not heal body, mind and spirit on your stay on Koh Tao?
Holistic healing approaches are accessible with techniques
like Reiki, Foot Reflexology, Tai Chi, Chi Gong, Meditation
and Yoga. You have the choice for one-day sessions or 3-4
day courses. Check it out! You see, the turtle has a lot to
offer besides diving, right?!
Sairee
Beach: at its southern end you will find Jor Por Ror, a massive
rock formation, which bears the engraved monogram of King
Rama V. The King visited Koh Tao on June 18, 1899. Opposite
is the Fishery Museum & the Fishery Conservation Unit,
where marine life is observed and cultivated (Giant Clam Garden).
Next
stop could be at Sairee View, a beautiful hilltop resort at
the north end. The resort owner purchased a huge whale skeleton
from villagers years ago. The place where the whale's bone
is kept is also a spectacular viewpoint, especially during
sunset. Close by you can visit the mysterious diamond caves.
Another
great panorama you'll experience at Two View, the second-highest
peak of Koh Tao (313m). You can get there both from Sairee
Beach and Tanote Bay.
Chalok
Baan Kao: On the east end you will find stunning viewpoints
in every direction. To the east you see Thian Og Bay, to the
north you view Chalok and to the south you see both bays together.
All routes involve steep walking, but it's definitely worth
it!
Next
proceed on the beach to the west side of Chalok, cross the
concrete bridge leading to Saan Jao. Take a break at the Viewpoint
Restaurant with the best angle of the Buddha Rock. Then climb
the stairs behind uphill and follow a shady path down to the
next bay, June Juea Beach. This is where real trekking starts,
thus only the sportive and energetic ones should proceed beyond
that point. The pathway goes very steep uphill and enters
thick forest. After a while you reach Cape Jeda Gang. Time
for another refreshment. Check out the view and the huts on
the cape. From there uphill again, stay on the coast side
path until you reach the next bay, Sai Nuan. Up again, pass
the "Lost Hippie's Totem" and finally arrive in
Jansom Bay. From there it is only a 10 minute walk to reach
Mae Haad. This trip takes roughly three hours without breaks
from Saan Jao Beach,- so don't start too late.
The
John-Suwan Viewpoint - is named after two friends, Mr John
and Mr Suwan, who went up hill in search of a good place to
build a home but instead found a viewpoint overlooking two
beaches curving into each other just like the famous view
at Phi Phi Don island. The viewpoint is located on a mountain
ridge, at Chalok Baan Kao beach to the south of the island.
It takes about 15 minutes of moderate trek over a distance
of about 400 meters to reach the viewpoint. - Chalok Baan
Kao Viewpoint - is located at the back of Koh Tao Cottage
on Chalok Ban Kao bay. The concrete-paved, steep path leads
to the top of the hill. There, visitors can find a wood walkway
and small pavilion where refreshing drinks are available.
The spot offers a sweeping view of the bay. If the weather
is clear, you may catch a glimpse of Pha-ngan or Samui Island
as well as the Ang Thong archipelago further away.
NEARBY
ISLANDS
Koh
Nang Yuan
Koh Nang Yuan island is but a short distance from Koh Tao
(15 minutes by long-tail boat). Nang Yuan features three small
islets joined together by a narrow strip of sparkling white
beach. One of the must-see spots on Nang Yuan Island is the
viewpoint, which gives you an excellent view over the beach
that joins the three islets together.
Visitors
must pay 20 baht fees to get to the viewpoint on top of the
hill. You can enjoy snorkeling right by one of the three beaches.
The water is shallow and clear. Another recommended activity
is to take a trip around the island with a long-tail boat.
Koh Phangan
Famed for its wild, all-night-long Full Moon Party at Haad
Rin. The island is 45 km away from Koh Tao. There is a regular
boat service everyday. The trip takes about one hour.
Koh
Samui
The biggest island in the archipelago, Ko Samui nowadays hosts
over 250 hotels and bungalow resorts. Tourist infrastructure
is well developed. It is a destination for island and beach
lovers before setting over to one of the smaller islands.
Ang
Thong National Park
The
archipelago is a group of 40 islands mostly uninhabited. Ang
Thong is usually a choice for a one-day and a half-day outing
from Samui. After getting around the island, travelers usually
go out to the archipelago for a swim, snorkelling and enjoying
an amazing view.
Food
& Dining
Only a few years ago the culinary scene in Koh Tao was rather
basic. Classic Thai dishes together with little western additions
like American breakfast, pancakes, sandwiches and French fries
have been on the daily menu.
Nowadays
caterers and cooks from all nations have settled on the island
and added drastically to the food variety. Lots of excellent
restaurants are offering culinary delights from all over the
world.
You
can get pizza, homemade pasta, smoked salmon, sushi, nachos,
enchiladas, Wiener sausages, imported steaks, bangers with
mash, pies and so on.
Same goes for the liquid delights, draught and imported beers,
wine, spirits, fabulous cocktails,- nothing is missing.
Fresh
markets offer all sorts of tropical fruit and also prepare
them on the spot to a shake of your choice. Bakeries sell
fresh bread and pastries, and there is even pizza delivery
service!
Koh Tao can have a pretty wild nightlife. The bars are generally
a little more chilled, and a lot less crowded than the huge
full moon parties on the nearby island of Koh Phangan, but
with a bucket of Thai whiskey being passed around the dance
floor you can quickly find yourself lost in a party that will
continue through to the early morning.
Professional
DJ's from all over the world spin theit very best. Fire jugglers
frequently perform on the beaches. Each night of the week
will find a different party. Look out for flyers at shops
and taxis. Most of the bigger clubs have dance floors on the
beach, a couple up in the mountains.
There
are also plenty of more relaxed, chilled little bars along
the beaches in which to warm up for the parties or just unwind
and get into the music.
Some
places show live sports, some have pool tables and now &
then places with daily changing movie programs invite you
to come in and enjoy. Thai boxing is performed at irregular
times,- check for flyers on the street. Don't miss it!
Recommended
Night Spots:
AC
- BAR - Sairee Beach
Koh Tao's original party place, huge dance floor at the beach
front, happy hours until midnight, fireworks, BBQ, open daily,
party every Tue, Thu, Sun from 20.00h - 3.00h
BARACUDA
- Restaurant & Bar - Mae Haad
The most diverse venue on the rock. Fantastic Indian &
Western menu. BBQ's, MTV, films & sports & wicked
tunes. End of pier road, towards Chalok, party on Mon &
Sat.
COSTES
LOUNGE - Open Air Terrace Bar -Mae Haad
Chilled out, very friendly atmosphere. Perfect for daytime
relaxing & nighttime socializing. Ambient & funky
tunes - cool drinks & comfortable surroundings. Noon -
late
THE
IVY BEACH BAR - Bar & Restaurant - Mae Haad
Relaxed, cozy ambience with large natural garden at the beach
front, magnificent seascape views. BBQ's, delicious cocktails,
70's soul, disco, funk, latin & reggae. Game fishing
SEAMONKEY
- Lounge Bar - Mae Haad
Upstairs atmospheric venue with the best vibe, pool table,
healthy juices, choice cocktails, original snacks. Open daily
from 15.00h - 2.00h. Sundays closed.
THE
WHITENING - Bar & Restaurant - Mae Haad
It's stylish restaurant has a diverse selection of fine Thai
& Western cuisine. Cool sounds from the bar lead to a
relaxed atmosphere for drinking & dining. Friday night
is party night!
BABALOO
BAR - Chalok Baan Kao - Saan Jao Beach
One of the most secluded party spots, dancing on a private
beach, chill out area, psychedelic decor, cool people, fire
jugglers, int'l. DJ's, moon phase parties.
Koh
Tao is situated in a sub-tropical climate like the rest of
Thailand. The island is effected both by NE- and SW- Monsoons.
The NE- Monsoon dominates fom the middle of October to the
beginning of December, where you can expect heavy rainfall.
The SW- Monsoon is mild since Koh Tao is sheltered both by
the mainland and the surrounding islets.
Koh
Tao is unique since it offers a 10 month high season for travelers
to visit and enjoy the beauty of the Island. Peak seasons
are from February to April, and again from July to September.
GETTING
TO KOH TAO
There
are three different boat services from Chumphon to Koh Tao:
the Numhasin speed boat (departs daily in fine weather only
at 7.30am; 1hr 45min; Bht.400); the Songserm express boat
(departs daily from January through October at 7.30am; 2hr
30 min; Bht.400); and the slow boat (departs daily in all
but the very worst weather at midnight; 6hr; Bht.200) Tickets
for all boat can be bought in Chumphon at any guesthouse or
travel agent, all of whome provide transport to the port and
some of whome also offer free showering facilities and video
shows between connections.
Three
kinds of vessel run between Thong Sala on Koh Phangan and
Koh Tao: at least two speed boats a day (50min; Bht.350) two
express boats a day (1hr 30min; Bht.225) and one slow boat
(3hr; Bht.150). The speed boat originate at Bo Phut, Maenam
and Nathon on Koh Samui (total journey time to Koh Tao 1hr
30min; Bht.450-550). There’s also a night boat from Surath
Thani, departing at 11pm (9hr; Bht.400).
The services fluctuate according to demand and so on, and
in high season extra boats may appear. All voyages to and
from Koh Tao are also at the mercy of the weather, especially
between June and November; plenty of travellers have missed
onward connections through being stranded on the island, and
so it’s best not to plan to visit at the end of your holiday.